I call it peak bleak: its right about now when all of us beyond our thirties are really thinking that our skin looks particularly knackered. Its central heating, its illness, its being overtired, over worked and over partied and it makes for a combination of low-level dryness and dullness that no illuminating make-up seems to ameliorate (highlighter on a dehydrated cheekbone is never flattering). Hydrating sheet masks, richer moisturisers and glycolic peels make some strides to improve exhausted skin, but the thing Ive found to make the single biggest difference is microneedling.

Im not referring to deep derma rolling treatments here (brilliant as they are for long term rejuvenation, they do entail some down-time) but rather facials - and at-home facial treatments - that incorporate a level of gentle needling. What gives these facials the edge on less than young skin is twofold: firstly, as leading facialist Sarah Chapman explains, microneedling is electronic precision engineering, creating thousands of needle columns into the skin, each one penetrating into the dermis layer to rejuvenate your skin by supercharging collagen production, which in turn reduces the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and improves the overall texture of your skin. Which goes to say that it gets right to the root cause of a bleak complexion and directly revs it up.

Secondly, needling is astoundingly effective at aiding absorption of serums applied both during and after treatment (thanks to those tiny channels that Chapman described) and, quite frankly, the more hydrating serum you can get your skin to suck up, the better in terms of improving its plumpness and luminosity in both the short and long term.

Treatment wise, the best facial that incorporates needling is Chapmans Stem Cell Collagen Therapy treatment, 210. Chapman calls it the ultimate youth-boosting facial, a punchy claim that I must say its hard to dispute. The needling itself feels like nothing more than an electric toothbrush being whisked over the skin as it pushes in concentrated doses of botanical stem cells and peptides, while the finishing Dermalux red-light therapy adds to the impressive post-treatment glow. Whether you're looking for a facial that really delivers pre- or post-party, or simply want a fix to rid you of lacklustre skin, this is the facial to book.

At home, I like to needle every other day with a gentle manual 0.2-0.3mm roller: freshly rolled skin sucks in serum incredibly satisfyingly, and the increased microcirculation it induces adds to the don't you look well effect. Environs CIT Roller, 59, and Nannette de Gaspes Art of Noir Roller Noir, 35, both manage to be effective yet gentle. Do not be tempted to buy a cheap roller on Amazon or eBay; the needles are often hooked, which can rip the skin leading to redness and inflammation.

Roller Noir

35.00

Skinesis Intense Hydrating Booster

64.00

B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum

40.00

Peptide Veil

115.00

Rolling can be done on bare skin, but I find it more effective and comfortable to apply a thick layer of hydrating serum first, slathering on three times the amount Id usually apply of either Skinesis Intense Hydrating Booster, 64, or Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydrating Serum, 44. Start at the forehead and roll over each area three or four times horizontally, three or four times vertically, then diagonally in each direction, before moving onto the cheeks and finally chin and neck. Finish with a thick veil of cream (Im loving Decree Peptide Emollient Veil, 115) and youll wake up to skin that is anything but bleak.

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Why microneedling facials really work to revive 40+ skin - harpersbazaar.com